AbleComm: Panasonic phone systems & phones
Can I install a phone system?

© 1997-2004 AbleComm, Inc.  All Rights Reserved.  faqinstl.htm 1/25/04
Email  Newsletter  AbleComm.com Home  AbleComm.info Home
Call  toll-free, 1 888 ABLE 999  INSTALLATION SUPPLIES

logoforableC-200.gif (5010 bytes)


Blueball.gif (326 bytes) What's involved in setting up a phone system? What skills & tools do I need? Wiring basics. Stripping vs. crushing. Punching vs. plugging. A little bit about programming, and a funny horror story.

(this page is basic stuff -- click for more detailed info)

 

     FAQ #703:
     Can I install a phone system?

       The one-word answer is "probably."

If you're reading this, you're probably comfortable with computers and other electronic devices. You might be involved in electronics as a hobby, or as a business; and that experience can help you with your phone system. Many of our do-it-yourself clients have installed computer networks, and many are doctors or engineers. One is both an electrical engineer and a doctor, but you don't have to be either.

If you've ever installed a basic phone jack, or a speaker for your stereo system, you can probably install a phone system. You have to be able to strip insulation off wire, without cutting the wire.

The best traits you can bring to the job are patience, thoroughness, and good hands and eyes. Even if you've never done any electronics work, but are good with cars or woodworking or plumbing, you'll probably be fine. Be patient, and don't assume you know more than you do.

The installation requires three kinds of work, and you can choose to do some or all of it yourself, depending on time, money, mood and motivation.
Phase One: Installing Wire,
the "Brute Work"
6930.gif (19925 bytes)
CLICK for our power tools

This part of the installation requires no particular electronics experience, just some muscle, patience and common sense; and the ability to use tools like drills and staple guns, and maybe "snakes."

It's often easier if you have a helper, even a 12-year-old helper.

If the 12-year-old has X-ray vision, you stand a better chance of not drilling into water pipes.

You have to install wires from each phone location to a central point where the control unit ("KSU") will be located. You might be lucky enough to inherit wire from a previous phone installation, that can save you blood, sweat, tears, time and money.

Whether you are installing new wire or re-using existing wire, it must be in a "home-run" configuration (what computer people call "star topography"), with a direct path from each phone jack to the control unit. In residential construction, "loop-through" wiring is more common, where the circuit passes from one jack to another and another. If you have a loop-through arrangement, you can change some of the connections to reconfigure one or more jacks as home-runs.

If the wire is going into a house or commercial building that already has walls, you'll probably end up with a combination of concealed and exposed wire. In a home, it's common to run wire in attics and basements. In an office, it usually goes above the ceiling tiles. If the space above the tiles is a "plenum" for the building's heating and cooling system, you will need wire with Teflon or similar insulation. It's more expensive than normal vinyl insulation, and a real PITA to work with.

If the system is going to be in a newly-constructed building or a place where there is extensive renovation going on, it's much easier to install the phone wire BEFORE the walls are closed up -- at the same time that the electrical contractor is installing the electrical wiring. You might want to pay the electrical contractor or alarm guy to install the phone wiring, too. Typical charge for this work, before the walls are closed up, is $25 to $50 per jack.


the real thing:
look closely!
Make sure you or whomever you hire uses REAL phone wire, not just some randomly-selected multi-conductor wire that happens to be in the back of the truck. The wire should be 24-gauge, "twisted-pair," category 3 (sometimes called "level" 3).

Category 5 or 6 wire, which is normally used in computer networks, will also work fine.

It is usually more expensive, and a bit harder to use because the wire pairs are twisted together more tightly; but if you have some around or can get a good deal on it, use it.

If your electrical contractor says something like "don't worry, wire is wire," walk away, QUICKLY. The traditional four-conductor wire (green, red, black, yellow) is no longer considered adequate. It should not be used in new installations, but if there is some already in place, it'll probably be OK to re-use.

It's nice to have spare wire for additional devices later on, or to compensate for wire damaged by plumbers or squirrels. If you are running new wire, we recommend 4-pair or 6-pair 24 gauge to each phone location. Wire is cheap to buy. Installing more wire later on is not cheap, and can be very messy. You can buy wire locally or from us. We also sell jacks, terminal blocks, adapters, tools, cable and various hardware at PhoneGeeks.com 

All phones except the KX-T7130 and 7135 (when connected to an ancient KX-T123211D control unit) use normal four-conductor modular jacks -- the same stuff used for standard home phones. If you buy a phone system from us, we'll give you one free jack for each "system" phone. Just ask, and specify wall jack, flush jack, or surface jack.

Digital phones can work on one pair of wires, but need a second pair for the eXtra Device Port on the back of the phone.

If you are replacing an older "electromechanical" phone system that used 25-pair cable, we can provide adapters that will allow you to put modular plugs into the existing "Amphenol" connectors. You can also simply cut off the connectors and attach standard modular jacks to the old cable.
 

Phase Two: Connecting things to the wires.
You'll need good eyes and hands.
Are you a stripper or a crusher?

Once the wires are in place, you or someone will have to connect jacks to the ends of the wires where the phones will plug in. In most cases, you will connect four wires in each jack, and you'll probably use a wire stripper, a long-nose pliers, a screwdriver, and a wire-cutter. Phone pros don't strip insulation off individual 24-g wires; they crush the insulation with a long-nose pliers, and it slips right off.

The individual wires within the outer jacket are color-coded with an industry-standard pattern. However, this wire pattern does not match the color code used in most phone jacks, so follow this guide:
Wire in Jack Wire in Wall NOTE: Some wire has stripes on only half of each pair. For example, you may find a solid blue wire mated with a white wire with blue stripes.

CLICK for more on wire color codes.
green white with blue stripes
red blue with white stripes
black white with orange stripes
yellow orange with white stripes
Make sure that the wires are looped securely around each screw, between the washers, and not caught in the screw threads. Don't remove any more than a minimum amount of insulation, and watch out for short circuits (one bare wire touching two screws, or another bare wire). 

The other ends of all these wires have to connect to the control unit, and the wires supplying phone company dial tone also have to get to the control unit.

The control unit mounts on the wall, and it's usually helpful to mount some plywood on the wall, to hold the control unit and other components. A 2' by 4' piece of  5/8" or 7/8"  plywood should be adequate. Try to mount it so the center is at eye-level, with the wood panel horizontal. Most control units are about the size of a medicine cabinet, and need a nearby electrical outlet. If possible, use an outlet on a circuit that's dedicated for phone system use, only.

.

814big.jpg (6187 bytes)
"Punch-down tool" attaches wires to 66-block.

Punch-down tool punching down. Mark Henrichs photo
"66-block" connects control unit
to wires coming from phone jacks

 

 

(top-left) AbleComm's custom-made Versa-Block gives you the choice of punching-down or plugging-in, with Panasonic D308 and D1232 systems, and the expansion module on the D816.

We also have custom-made blocks for the Panasonic KX-TA624 and KX-TAW848, and we have custom-made patch panels for all Panasonic phone systems. CLICK

The KX-TD1232 and KX-TA1232 control units and the KX-TD308 use "66-type punch-down blocks" and "25-pair  connectorized cables" to connect to the wires coming from the individual telephone jacks. With a traditional terminal block, you'll need a punch-down tool to attach the wires coming from the phone jack. This is the "professional" method. We can also supply a terminal block with integral modular jacks, so the entire system can be snapped-together. This method is not as flexible, but doesn't require any special tools or expertise.

The digital 816 control unit has modular jacks for the first eight (or 16) phones. The expansion module for eight (or 16) more phones has a 25-pair Amphenol-type connector.

more about the connections


Phase Three: Programming the System (not such a big deal)

All of our Panasonic systems can be programmed from a display phone. The KX-TD308, KX-TD816, KX-TD1232, and KX-TAW848 can also be programmed with a PC. If you can read, and dial a phone, you can program a phone system. Click for the most important programming steps.

Phone system programming should really be thought of as two processes: customizing (selecting from hundreds of possible options, such as ringing patterns and toll restriction, to make the system work properly for you) and inputting (dumping in data, such as numbers for automatic dialing and names for Caller ID).

Your system should work just fine, right-out-of-the box, with no programming changes at all. You'll probably want to set the date and time and a few basic options at first, and gradually customize and optimize the system over several weeks, months and years.


We're here to help you! TN00738A1.gif (1685 bytes)

When you buy a phone system from AbleComm, you're starting a relationship, not just making a purchase. We'll provide hand-holding via phone, email or fax; and there's no charge for the help!

A HORROR STORY

A while ago, I was called-in to “rescue” a homeowner, whose phone jacks were installed by a blind retarded butcher with an electrician's license. Despite his disabilities, this guy was apparently a real smooth talker: he got the customer to pay a premium for American-made jacks, and many feet of top-quality Category 5 wire, the stuff that goes into high-speed computer LANs.

I asked about the wire. The missus said “I told the electrician that the kids use modems, and he said that this wire is best for sending data.”

Yeah, fine, sure. "Cat 5" is great for sending digital data from one PC to another, but the stuff that comes out of a modem is SOUND, just like voices, and it flows just fine though normal phone wire.

Unfortunately, the electrician's ignorance was exceeded by his arrogance. He didn't spend $6.99 for a Radio Shack phone-installation videotape (or even $4.99 for the book). He didn't know that the phone business has a generally-followed color code. He didn't know enough, to know that he didn't know enough, so he proceeded to make up his own color code:

“Duh, lesseee now. The jack has a little red wire, but there's no red wire coming out of the wall, but the brown looks kinda like red, so I'll use that. Now, green goes with green; that's easy, good. Halfway done. OOPS, I'm in trouble again. The jack has a yellow wire, but there's no yellow in the wall, so I'll use orange; that's close enough. Unless orange is supposed to go with the red. Hmm, I better connect them all together just be safe. And “blue” starts with B just like “black,” so I'll put them together. All done.”

And in good electrician style, ol’ Sparky carefully stripped the insulation off the ends of all the white wires, and twisted them together and covered them with a big blob of friction tape. Amazing. The best wire in the world, causing the worst crosstalk in the world.

It took about three days to repair the damage.


Home   Email    Online Ordering logoforableC-200.gif (5010 bytes)

Call us toll-free, 1 888 ABLE 999